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Tinctures or Evulsions?
by Justine Crane

   In Steffen Arctander’s textbook “Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural
Origin”, he writes:

   "A tincture is a prepared perfumery material, flavor material or pharmaceutical
product. Tinctures can be considered alcoholic extracts of natural raw materials; the
solvent is left in the extract as a diluent. Consequently, tinctures are not exposed to
heat during preparation. There is no general rule governing the strength of perfumery
or flavor tinctures."

   Of ultrasonic extraction, he writes:

  
 "Ultrasonic extracts are prepared flavor materials, or in a few cases, perfume
materials. Several methods of extracting natural raw materials with the aid of
supersonic sound vibrations have been described in scientific literature, and many
extractors have been patented. A few European flavor and perfume material suppliers
specialize in such extracts, e.g. Camilli, Albert et Laloue in Grasse, France. It is
claimed that this method:
1) gives higher yields,
2) reduces the amount of solvent needed,
3) greatly improves the flavor or odor in the sense that they become more true to nature,
4) reduces the extraction time considerably,
5) makes possible an extraction with water or low-proof alcohol where this is
otherwise not too effective.
   . . . The finely ground raw material is suspended in the menstruum
(solvent/alcohol) in the extractor. High-frequency vibration is applied, and in an
amazingly short time, the drug is exhausted. Due to the better yield given by this
method in comparison to ordinary extraction, the ultrasonic extracts are often cheaper in
use than the old types of extracts. This method is particularly useful for extraction of
flavors from sensitive (heat-sensitive) raw materials, e.g. coffee, spices, etc., but
flowers and herbs are also treated by this method now, e.g., mimosa, thyme, etc."

   Because the end-product of a tincture differs from a supersonic, or ultrasonic
tincture, we've redefined the terms to more accurately describe the procedures
used to obtain the final raw material.
   Tinctures are made by combining raw materials (herbs, seeds, grasses,
resins, woods, etc.) with high proof grain or grape alcohol and allowing them to
steep. Succussion, banging the container in which the tincture is held against
one’s hand can be used, though this cannot be, and is not considered in any way
similar to using an ultrasonic.
   Evulsions are made by combining raw materials as described in the tincturing
process with high proof grain or grape alcohol, and then placing the container
holding these materials into an ultrasonic unit for a length of time as to extract,
or pull, scent (or flavor) from the raw material into the menstruum (alcohol). By
definition, evulsion means to forcibly extract, or to pull out.
   Many Natural Botanical Perfumers have used this method of extracting high
quality perfumery ingredients from evulsing raw materials at home using
ultrasonic devices, such as jewelry cleaners or tattoo equipment cleaners, to
achieve evulsions which rival the quality of expensive absolutes. Smaller
devices can be utilized in producing small batches of evulsions; larger
capacities, in the 2L or higher range, are much more desirable. There are not, as
yet, any standards for ratios of raw material to solvent in the production of
evulsions for the Natural Botanical Perfumer, however, the following information
will help in solidifying a basic understanding of the techniques which produce
high quality evulsions.


Sample (small test batches):
Ratio     Solvent          Raw Material  Extraction Time
1-1        50 grams        50 grams        Six hours
2-1        66 grams        33 grams        Six hours
3-1        75 grams        25 grams        Six hours
3-2        60 grams        40 grams        Six hours

   Experiment with the ratios using the same raw materials to obtain the
results you desire; for example, run a small test batch of powdered basil at the
1-1 ratio, another at the 2-1 ratio, and so on and so forth, and then perform
evaluations for each resultant evulsion. You will find that certain raw materials
will need a longer extraction time (many hours; 40+) to obtain a useable end
product. Roots and resins may require a longer extraction time, while delicate
fresh flowers and leaves need less extraction time. Experiment, experiment,
experiment!
   Be sure to follow the operating instructions for your ultrasonic device to keep
it in good working order and to avoid accidents. Fill the cavity with distilled water
so that the water level rises to the top of the cavity when you place the
container of material into the ultrasonic, or use the minimum fill line as a gauge
and adjust if the water level rises up and out of the cavity. *Never run the
ultrasonic with the water level lower than the minimum fill line.
   Utilizing the chart above, determine the ratio of your experimental evulsion,
pour the solvent into the bottle or jar (jars are preferred as the opening is much
wider, which is helpful when using bulky raw materials) add in the raw material,
close the jar tightly and place it in the water bath in the ultrasonic device.  For
the best results, allow the materials intended for evulsing to dry out or wilt. Too
much water in the plant material can ruin an evulsion. Plug in the device and
turn it on to the highest time allowed. Some devices can become hot when used
for long periods of time. It is a good idea to allow it to cool down between
sessions.
When your evulsion reaches the four hour mark (for the purpose of this
experiment), remove the jar from the water bath, unplug the ultrasonic and pour
out the water. Strain the raw materials from the jar using a mesh strainer,
straining the fluid portion of the evulsion into a clean glass jar or bottle (use a
funnel if necessary). Label the bottle of finished evulsion with the amount of
raw materials to solvent, date of extraction, number of hours (or minutes)
needed to finish evulsing, and then conduct an evaluation of the finished
product. If you discover your evulsion is weak, you can begin the process over
using the first extraction results into which you would add another batch of raw
materials and conduct the experiment again. This would be a 2X (or two times)
extraction.
   For larger batches of evulsions, simply increase the number of grams to
ounces and proceed as instructed above. You can also create infusions in the
ultrasonic device if it has a heating element. Using either oil or alcohol, create
an evulsion blend as instructed and place the bottle into the water bath of the
ultrasonic device and turn on the heat. Experiment with time limits and test the
resultant infusion every few hours for strength of scent.

*Always follow the instructions that arrive with your ultrasonic. Water levels
within the cavity are important to maintain when the unit is in use. Improper
utilization of your ultrasonic could result in a malfunction causing permanent
damage.



Source: Perfume and Flavors of Natural Origin, Steffen Arctander, pub. 1961,
copyrights to Allured Publishing, 1994, reprinted 2003, Allured Publishing
Corporation, 362 South Schmale Road, Carol Stream, IL, 60188-2787 USA,
Telephone 630-653-2155
. . . naturals are quieter and allow a conversational experience
between the wearer and the scent.
Avery Gilbert